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Home News Newsflashes Orion, 8b+ First Ascent

Orion, 8b+ First Ascent

Is this the best climb I ever did? Probably yes...

First of all, I have to let you know that I will keep it short, because there is a VIDEO, which tells the whole story of the first ascent of what i believe is one of the best boulder problems -period!

But essentially, what happened is the following:

After my first visit to Crevillente in 2014, I've wanted to return ever since and try some of Nacho Sanchez' amazing hard lines. But when I finally managed to get time off and arrived at the Cova de la Gota, i saw that 2 of the best lines had broken: Insomnio, 8c and Paciencia Infinita, 8b+. I had done the "easier" climbs in the cave already, so I had to look for something new...

[Scoping out new lines in the majestic Cova de la Gota.]


Well, obviously it's not easy to find new possible combinations or lines in an area that is home to amazingly strong climbers like Nacho Sanchez, Beto Rocasolano or Jonathan Flor. But to my surprise I found a set of really cool starting holds (two nice pockets) and a few pinch/crimp features leading to an existing 7c+ (Emergencia en la Fuerza). I started working the moves (quite a lot of small footholds and features broke during this process), but I quickly found solutions to all the sequences. I thought his was gonna go quick, but ney, ney, the weather crapped out on me! The wind turned south and it got hot and humid as f***k!

[I thought 89% relative humidity was bad... I went up to 95% some times!]


The only chance I had was to put on my Wolfgang Güllich style shorts and pray for cold temps at night.

[Waiting for the temps to drop and the wind to die.]


If the whole climb hadn't been that good, I think I may have given up, but the moves are just unreal! See for yourself!


[The start: Moving off the 2 undercling pockets to another "undercling-pinch-crimp" with your left hand.]


[Move number 2: I had to discard my original drop-knee beta and go with a bicycle due to a knee injury.]


[Dang! Big move to a really good incut undercling edge.]


[Transitioning the weight over.]


[Setting up for the big cross move! Not over yet!]


I wish there was more of this kind of stuff, especially where I live! Anyway, check out the VIDEO, and if you want beta, drop me an email!





Umfrage: your vision!