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Home News Local News Diabolica, 8b

Diabolica, 8b

The last memories I had of a place called Welle (the wave) near Graz go back to the year 2001 when I bouldered there with my friends Chrischn and Patrick (images below).

This year, Stefan told me about a new problem called Hängetittensex, 7c that he had put up recently and I thought: Hell, why not take a closer look at that place again. And I have to say it was worth it!

One of the "classics", uhm, well, maybe I should rather call it "one of the older" problems there is a really sweet ramp on the far right end of the "wave" checkin' in somewhere around 7b/+.

Since this is already a good problem and the wall continues further to the left it seemed logical to extend it. The extension is called Elektrostatischer Dreck (pic below) and it ends at an obvious big hole where you match with both hands. I guess this version is something like 7c+.

The next thing that was on my mind was a really steep, athletic and aesthetic line with an obvious standing start. When I first looked at it together with Stefan we weren't even sure if it was possible.

The first time I got on it went surprisingly well, but still far from sending it. I guess the major mistake I made was that I tried to go directly into the big hole where Elektrostatischer Dreck ends but later I used a slopy crimp as an intermediate and it went a lot better. I was motivated and wanted to come back as soon as possible. But as usual, something else kept me from returning. And this time, it wasn't the weather. Even worse: I pinched a nerve in my lover back and spent some time in the hospital tranquilized by pain killers.

One week later the weather was just too nice to keep me inside and Bernd and I went back to the wave to check out the conditions. I guess you could call it the typical no-anticipation-send: The first ascent of Diabolika,8b an amazing, steep, athletic 4-move problem!

(Due to problems with the land owner I cannot provide a topo or access description. Furthermore the videos have been set to internal use only. Sorry about that.)


Umfrage: your vision!