GlobalClimbing

Last fall I had a couple of really good days in Kotecnik, Slovenia and ever since I’ve been wanting to write about this place. Well, as usual time flew by quickly and fall has turned into spring again.

Instead of spending time in front of the computer (which my job makes me do anyway) to make an update, I decided it was better to go back there and show my friend Mischa from Prague some top Slovenian climbing areas. But finally, here are some impressions!

[Spring is here! The two old señores are enjoyng memories of their time in España.]

We started our little tour in Kotecnik since it is really close to my hometown Graz. Last fall I still did a few very recommendable routes on my second attempt, like: CSN, 8a+, Kmecka Malka, 8b, Impulz, 8a+, Tamavzek, 8b, and also the endurance traverse Divja Brina, 8b/8b+, which has a great finish!

[(Almost) at the end of the tireing but stunning traverse Divja Brina, 8b/8b+]

[Impulz, 8a+]

[Short and stout: Tamavzek, 8b]

This time, after an unusual spring with hardly any precipitation the moderate climbs in the sectors on the far right were really dry and therefore we decided to spend most of the time doing fun 6s and 7s. That was a blast!

["Only" 6c+, but reeeaaachy: Mischa getting his upper body warm on (_{name coming soon})]

[Anyone don't like big pockets? Pamaranca, 6b+; one of the best!]

[Miki Mischa pulling the rope to quickly get on one more quality climb. He really is a modri dirkac!]

Never the less we wanted to stop by “the cave” and switch into fighting mode at least once. I had already tried Katakombe, 8b+ once before, but fell at the crimpy top out. This time I thought it would be better to get on Memento, also 8b+. This route has the same start but then traverses left across the cave. Since I already knew the beginning, I guess I can’t call the send a “2nd go” but I was pretty psyched about this great climb no matter what!

[What a cave! And what a line! Memento, 8b+]

We then continued to Misja Pec which was as crowded as usual, spent 2 days doing quite a lot of stuff in the 8a to 8a+ range, but didn’t find time to shoot any photos. Also, it was time to head back to work for 2 days in order to finish some scientific articles.

Next up was Bohinjska Bela! There are several sectors scattered throughout the forest and all of them offer great rock (if you are ok without the really steep stuff). What I like about this area is that it doesn’t see a lot of traffic. This means that the rock isn’t very polished and sometimes the climbs don’t even have much chalk on them. I was pretty stoked when I was able to on sight Che Guevara, 8a, a 20m long slightly overhanging face with not a single tick mark on it. The line is impressive! See for yourself:

[During the on-sight of Che Guevara, 8a]

[The work is done! Celebrating the good days with a cold spanish Horchata de Chufa! Venga tío!]