Some of you might remember the post entitled “The Umea Connection” in which I also mentioned a project called Soulweeper Sitstart. Ironically, 5 hours after this post went online; I went back to Mosjön and sent the problem. Now you might wonder what took me so long to post a hand full of pix and a simple, unedited video and the answer is: I was traveling. Yes, traveling! 2,5 months, from the Nordkapp to Tarifa. And then even more… business trips.
Anyway… Back to Soulweeper:
[Taking a look at the crux holds after being humbled a few times in a row.]
[The first moves require some body-tension but are not that hard]
[Then, switching to the undercling gets you ready for increasing difficulties.]
[The definite crux: lie-backing against the weird openhanded and slippery sidepull and slapping up and right for the impossibly bad sloper!]
[Once you manage to hang on the sloper it’s time to bump further for the decent pinch – not that easy either.]
[Quickly place your toehook (or heel if you wish) and cross over to a good incut hold.]
[Almost done: Bigger holds lead to the relatively easy top-out and a very pleasant, rewarding feeling after the send. Boy, what a cool line!]
Luckily, the whole ascent was captured on video at 03:24 at night to avoid the heat during the day. After I did the problem, I was really stoked about the beautiful line (that is obvious, isn’t it) and wanted to send the video to my friend Stefan in Germany, but I forgot to keep the YouTube link unpublished… Suddenly the video had more than 300 hits and I haven’t even put it up on my site yet. So, once again, YouTube was faster than me.
Oh, and I almost forgot: Since it was “only” 3:30 after the first ascent of Soulweeper Sit, I decided I was still awake enough to try to flash Nirvana, 7c. It went well. Congratulations Linus to this great problem!
[Yes, the toehook makes it possible: Casually hanging on to the seemingly impossible sloper.]
[On the first go the footwork is never that great... flashing Nirvana, 7c]
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