I don’t know whether it was lack of creativity or simply the fact that most of the boulders around Graz were soaking wet all spring. I rarely “reclimb” routes or problems that I have already done, because I think the world is full of excellent climbs and it’s a pity to only do a few of them.
However, almost 10 years after I first visited the Sonnendeck (= sun deck) I went back to show the boulder to my friends, do a few problems again, and shoot a few photos and videos.
The Boulder is located in southern Styria, in a romantic forest next to an ancient castle.
[View from the boulder across the valley]
There are just a few lines on this junk of rock, but then ones there are, are really good! Furthermore, there are countless variations and eliminate problems, but if I really want to define each hold I might as well stay in the gym.
The first problem on the boulder (as far as I know) was a great 7b-ish line called Dextro Energy,. It starts on the left arete of the boulder, traverses right across an obvious rail and then busts straight up through the overhang on incut crimps. Nice, nice, nice!
[Flashing Dextro Energy, 7b]
[Flo trying a different solution in Dextro Energy, 7b]
Then, there is also a right start to Dextro Energy, which is roughly the same grade. Though this might be considered just a variation, it's moves are fairly different and they feel just great! It can also be seen on this video.
Of course, there is the original hard line through the overhang! It is simply magnificent! Later on, a left start was added and the problem was renamed to "Der warme Hans", slightly increasing the grade from 7c+ to something like 7c+/8a? Anyway, here is a video of me doing the original version of the climb on my second try.
[The beginning of the crux in the "Central Original", 7c+. Heading for the sharp crimp.]
[The second hard move in ""Central Original", 7c+. The heelhook is a little insecure but works well.]
[Don't forget to warm down! Flo doing the Warmup Arete, 6c]
Thanks to Mel for the photos!
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