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Home News Newsflashes King Size, fb 8a, flash

King Size, fb 8a, flash

I am quite often surprised how well chalked up little shitty boulders are, as long as they are close enough to the parking or inside the main area. As soon as you leave the beaten path it is all different...

On the other hand, sometimes amazing lines hardly ever see repeats or even remain unclimbed, simply because they're a little ways away from the rest. Interestingly enough, this phenomenon affects mainly world class climbing areas. A friend of mine just came back from a bolting trip to Ceuse, I put up new stuff in Chironico, the Rocklands, Sweden, Norway etc... So how come?

[Stustenpass? No way! But, yes, it is my friend!]

Well, I hate to say it, but coming from an area that is certainly NOT world class in terms of climbing gives me a different point of view and the right to say what I am about to say:  I think climbers who live in the best climbing areas are sometimes spoiled! But, shhhh, keep it quiet.

And then, there's something else:

Some of the best bouldering sites don't even have such a strong localism. Like Ticino for example. So, these areas mainly see tourists, weekend warriors or climbers who simply want to enjoy their short vacation and wouldn't even consider spending only one second on cleaning a project or hiking a long way to one lonely boulder. But that's exactly what I did.

[Worth a long hike? I would say so! King Size, 8a]

Looking ath the photo above, there's no doubt! It's worth leaving the beaten path. enough said. The following pictures will give you an impression of a great problem located at Sustenpass. There's also a video of the flash, as you might have found out already.


[3, 2, 1: Lift-off! The Problem starts at a low sidepull / undercling.]

[Some body tension moves and a hard gaston assemble the crux.]

[Great view from up here! Going for a perfectly shaped pinch with the left.]

[A long move completes the perfect mix of static, dynamic and powerful sequences.]

[Fairly good holds lead to the top-out. King Size is so good, it should be twice as long!]


Umfrage: your vision!