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Juno Reactor, fb 8a+ : First Ascent!

Is it really worth driving 1600 km round trip for one day of bouldering, or even just one climb? Yes, it is!

Ok, I have to admit the introduction sounds a bit extreme. Originally, I planned a one week bouldering trip to Chironico, but the weather just didn’t permit that. I ended up bouldering just one day at Schattental but this day was good!

[Ticino around New Year's. Lago Maggiore and the suburbs of Locarno.]

In early 2013 I did a climb called Fair Play, 7c and discovered a few small and improbable looking holds to the right of it. I didn’t really have time to try the line but it at least seemed possible to me. Last summer during a short visit at Sustenpass we also spent a few days at Chironico and I got to clean the rock and try this amazing project. I got quite close after a few tries but the warm temperatures (20°C even at night!) shredded my skin. I knew it was just a matter of friction.

[Warming up at Schattental: A great, but unfortunately unknown 7a/+]

[Same start but different finish as the above mentioned problem. Sollbruchstelle, 7b]

Now, when I returned it took just one try! When I topped out I thought: “Great, but this is no harder than 7a!” Well, I guess you know this feeling. Trying for a while, thinking it’s super hard and then doing it and thinking that it is easy. But what matters most to me: I found an amazing line that people have ignored for such a long time. As always, a first ascent in such a well established area is something special. Here are some photos to give you an impression of the climb. Oh, and of course there is a little video as well!


[The first move is a long reach to the right]

[The first move is a long reach to the right]

[A heel hook right by your hand allows you to hang on to the small crimp]

[Establishing using an intermediate to go for a slopy pinch]

[Again, a small crimp for your right hand.]

[Almost done! Going for another bad intermediate with my left hand and then continuing for 2 good edges]

The first ascent of Juno Reactor sure justified the whole trip and the long drive. But apart from that it was great fun to travel with two very motivated girls and meet up with good friends from different countries. Next time the atmosphere will be equally good, but the weather will be better. I know it.


[Impressions of the short but fun trip to Ticino: Mel and Linn crushing it!]


[Time to go home...]




Umfrage: your vision!