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Home News Local News Radegund Revival

Radegund Revival

The last time I climbed at St. Radegund was in 2005 when I did the first ascent of "Hintern Busch und gusch!". But this spring I had to think about some cool traverse that I never did back then...

In the beginning I didn't like this boulder too much because of its weird, painful hold, but the closer I looked at it the more I started to appreciate it.

Anyway, I ended up doing two really nice problems (both on my second attempt) this spring, just before it got too warm. First, the before mentioned Straßenblock Traverse, 8a:


[The Straßenblock Traverse starts on the far, far right of the boulder with 2 or 3 reachy moves]

[You soon reach a good slopy rail and some bigger holds...]

[Once the pump starts kickin' in you need to get ready for the actual crux!]

Here's a short video with my beta in case you are interested...


Oh yes, and then there is a problem called Tränen, Schmerz und Finsternis, 7c+, which basically means Tears, Pain and Darkness. I don't know about tears and darkness, but pain, yes, for sure...

The original version ends with a left curve, avoiding a big move. I didn't like that so much, so I decided to give it a more direct finish. I guess the grade wont change much, maybe it is a little bit harder that way.



[Crimping down hard at the start of Tränen, Schmerz und Finsternis]

[Preparing for the last big move...]

[... and launching for the finishing jug!]

As you can see in the video my fingers were still pretty cold and I almost slipped and cut my skin on the last move...






Umfrage: your vision!