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Home News Newsflashes Chironico First Ascents

Chironico First Ascents

Grades can be frustrating. Especially when you are not in shape. So the best way to avoid losing the motivation is to climb something that doesn't have a grade!

After a nine month break from bouldering (last time I bouldered was in Crevillent) and a four month break from any climbing at all it was difficult to crush right away when I arrived in Ticino. After getting shut down by some stull I should normally be able to do pretty quickly I was wondering through the forest when suddenly a few new lines jumped into my eye.

[New stuff! Getting ready to launch in Arrowhead, 7c/+]

The first one was a really obvious prow, with some bad starting holds and basically no footholds. A blank section then leads to a decent triangle-shaped sloper and an easy finish above a small roof. Ironically, the problem is located in the center of the Schattental sector, right next to the popular Pet Therapie boulder...


[Sticking the crux jump during the first ascent of Arrowhead, 7c/+]

[Good rails lead to an easy finish above the lip. Don't forget to check out the video!]


The next lines I saw are to be found on the front side of the huge "from dirt grows the flower"-boulder. Why was I the first one to see these lines? Well, i did in fact find these lines a few years ago, but they were covered by a few large bushes. Recently, some road workers cut the bushes and did the work I wanted to do. Anyway, the first problem is a nice, technical warm up on big slopy holds called Skype Sex, maybe around 6c.


[Brushing the front side of the infamous "from dirt grows the flower"-boulder]

[During the first ascent of Skype Sex, 6c]


There was still plenty of space to the left of Skype Sex, but somehow, initially, I didn't see an obvious striking line. What I did see was a big rounded bowl-shaped feature.

[Trying the sit start of the new project, that ended up being called The Toilet Bowl]


Eventually I was able to link some moves from a sit start across this crazy feature to a nice mantle top out. The result is called The Toilet Bowl. It is really hard for me to give a grade, because I am quite bad on slopers, but it is for sure 7c! (I flashed a few 8s the day before...).

[Testing the friction in the name-giving feature of The Toilet Bowl, 7c/+]

[You must press hard when you get to the The Toilet Bowl, 7c/+]

So, folks, I hope you go out and repeat those problems as I think they are really worth it!

ThanX to Lukas and Philipp for the support!



Umfrage: your vision!