GlobalClimbing

Grades can be frustrating. Especially when you are not in shape. So the best way to avoid losing the motivation is to climb something that doesn't have a grade!

After a nine month break from bouldering (last time I bouldered was in Crevillent) and a four month break from any climbing at all it was difficult to crush right away when I arrived in Ticino. After getting shut down by some stull I should normally be able to do pretty quickly I was wondering through the forest when suddenly a few new lines jumped into my eye.

[New stuff! Getting ready to launch in Arrowhead, 7c/+]

The first one was a really obvious prow, with some bad starting holds and basically no footholds. A blank section then leads to a decent triangle-shaped sloper and an easy finish above a small roof. Ironically, the problem is located in the center of the Schattental sector, right next to the popular Pet Therapie boulder...

[Sticking the crux jump during the first ascent of Arrowhead, 7c/+]

[Good rails lead to an easy finish above the lip. Don't forget to check out the video!]

The next lines I saw are to be found on the front side of the huge "from dirt grows the flower"-boulder. Why was I the first one to see these lines? Well, i did in fact find these lines a few years ago, but they were covered by a few large bushes. Recently, some road workers cut the bushes and did the work I wanted to do. Anyway, the first problem is a nice, technical warm up on big slopy holds called Skype Sex, maybe around 6c.

[Brushing the front side of the infamous "from dirt grows the flower"-boulder]

[During the first ascent of Skype Sex, 6c]

There was still plenty of space to the left of Skype Sex, but somehow, initially, I didn't see an obvious striking line. What I did see was a big rounded bowl-shaped feature.

[Trying the sit start of the new project, that ended up being called The Toilet Bowl]

Eventually I was able to link some moves from a sit start across this crazy feature to a nice mantle top out. The result is called The Toilet Bowl. It is really hard for me to give a grade, because I am quite bad on slopers, but it is for sure 7c! (I flashed a few 8s the day before...).

[Testing the friction in the name-giving feature of The Toilet Bowl, 7c/+]

[You must press hard when you get to the The Toilet Bowl, 7c/+]

So, folks, I hope you go out and repeat those problems as I think they are really worth it!

ThanX to Lukas and Philipp for the support!