• Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size
Home News Newsflashes Cresciano Weekend - La pelle, 8a - FLASH

Cresciano Weekend - La pelle, 8a - FLASH

After the last trip the motivation to come back to Ticino was high. But heavy snowfalls delayed our journey and turned Chironico into a winter wonderland. We originally planned on 4 days of climbing but the melt down basically cut it down to 2.

[Beautiful landscape but shitty conditions in Chironico.]

After 2 days of waiting for the snow to melt in Cresciano (which is a bit south of Chironico and therefore lower and further away from Gottardo pass) we encountered some dry rocks.

[That fat old sun: Doing a great job drying the boulders in Cresciano.]

[Hiking up to Cresciano.]

One of the problems I've always wanted to get on, but never actually did because I kept going to Chironico is Frank's wild years, originally graded 8a+. It is an impressive overhang that is climbed using various heel hooks and all sorts of tricks. The first attempt was good, but somehow, my hand slipped out of the undercling...

[Another great classic: Frank's wild years, 8a/+.]

Right after having sent Frank's wild years a kind local climber came walking by and we started talking. He was about to head to La pelle, which is another amazing classic. I remember seeing videos of my heroes Ben Moon and Jerry Moffatt trying this boulder. Luckily the swiss guy told me his beta and that was all I needed to flash this amazing piece of rock!

[Flashing La pelle, 8a. The second move gains an incut sidepull.]

[After getting a weird undercling with your right hand the good rail to the left is close]

Having done these two 8s I was quite satisfied and we spent the last day just cruising around the forest trying random classics and just things that looked good to us. Here are some impressions, and - of course - a little video!

[Peter warming up early in the morning.]

[Dos Canones, formerly graded 7c+, now apparently 7b+. I guess it really depends on the campus start!]

[Flashing Frederic Bricole, a powerful 7c/+!]

[Peter improving his slab climbing skills]

[Flashing Backgammon, 7c - I got a good pump from this long bastard!]

[Peter sending the 6b-mantle of U-turn]

[Doing La pioche, 7b+]

[U-turn, 7b - flash. Looks small, but is really nice!]

[Another 7b flash: Killer Finger. Nomen est omen.]

[West waltz fuck you, 7b. Weird name but great climb.]

[Last but not least: Balu der Bär, 7b+]


That's all folks! Next up: either an entry about Albarracín or somewhere in the USA. We will see...




Umfrage: your vision!