GlobalClimbing

  • Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size
Home

9 First Ascents at Black Mountain

During my time in L.A. Black Mountain was the place I visited most. However, despite the fact that a new guidebook was recently published, which attracted tons of climbers, I still found plenty of yet unclimbed lines.

I'm going to present 9 new climbs that I put up in the summer of 2015. They are listed in the order of appearance of the VIDEO that I prepared to (hopefully) get you psyched for some repeats.

[First impressions of Black Mountain during a weekend trip with Patrick]

[First impressions of Black Mountain during a weekend trip with Patrick]

[I immediately fell in love with that place (especially the sunsets)...]

 

1. Mrs. Redd's, V6/7

Even after having done this problem several times, I am still not sure whether it is V4 or V8. The line is located at the backside of the famous "Tour de France Boulder". It starts with a right hand crimp and a left hand heel match at the LOWEST sloper. Follow the compression feature/prow and top out.

[Two moves into the action! Pic by AJ]

[During the first ascent of Mrs. Redd's. Pic by AJ]

["UK John" during one of the first repeats of Mrs. Redd's]

 

2. Oachkatzlschwoaf, V8

Just to get this straight in the beginning: Oachkatzlschwoaf means squirrel's tail in south eastern Austrian dialect. This little roof has some awesome moves! Start at the lowest crimp rail and climb straight out, just a shown in the video!

[A low start on in-cut crimps leads to... Pic by Mel]

[... a cool gaston move to the lip of the boulder. Pic by Mel]

 

3. Hopskotch Sit, V10

Well, I have to admit, I only added a sit start to this already established great problem. However, the sit adds an extra 2 moves, which are great and adds a little difficulty. Grab a high left sidepull / crimp and a very low right hand crimp. The rest is obvious.

[The first hard move of Hopskotch Sit, V10. Pic by Patrick]

[From here on it's nothing new. Enjoying the great upper moves of the classic Hopskotch. Pic by Patrick]

 

4. The Path of Most Resistance, V12

This problem is a combination of the best/hardest sequences on the "Tour Boulder". Start with Tour de France Center Sit, V11 and finish up Time Trial, V9.

[During the first ascent of The Path of Most Resistance, V12. Pic by Allen]

 

5. The Cube Sit, V8

Just another silly sit start I added when I was warming up / playing around at this marvelous boulder. Take a small pinch with your right hand and a small crimp with your left. Fire for the good hold.

[Getting ready to launch in The Cube Sit, V8. Pic by Dan]

 

6. Methane Sunset, V9/10

My friends from L.A. told me that this problem had been previously done, but some crucial features broke and it's been a project since. It was way too hot the day I got on it but everyone was hanging out at the Visor and I got curious about this problem. It's low ball, but actually really good!

[Grinding my teeth on a hot summer day doing the FA of Methane Sunset, V9/10]

[Hip flexibility sure helps in Methane Sunset, V9/10]

 

>> First Ascent!">7. Obscurus Sanctus

Yeah, I already posted a separate article about this one. Certainly one of my proudest first ascents!

[Simply amazing! >> First Ascent!">Obscurus Sanctus, V13/14. Pic by Mel]

 

8. The Dog House, V9

I actually did this one as a consolation prize after a few unsuccessful attempts in Obscurus Sanctus. Never the less it's a fun little problem! Start matched on an in-cut crimp rail, bust for the slopy lip and traverse this to the right until you can top out.

[Climbing the Dog House, V9 with the lights of Banning in the Background. Pic by AJ]

Oh yeah, in case you were wondering WHY it is called The Dog House...

[My good friends and great support team "UK John" and AJ]

[These 5 Dogs occupied The Dog House Boulder when we brushed it up for the FA]


9. The A-Team, V9

Another "hidden" gem I discovered when working Obscurus Sanctus. I was surprised to find this excellent line just at the backside of the ever popular Tour de France Boulder still untouched. OK, it took some digging, lost of cleaning and building the landing to make it happen, but it was definitely worthwhile! Thanks AJ for hanging in there with me!

Oh, I've heard people that it feels quite easy when conditions are good. Well, we had to fight against nights in the high 70s and many bugs... So it felt harder to us.

[It nay not be the hardest climb, but it is for sure a stunning feature: The A-Team]

[Cool move in a terrain that's pretty rare at Black Mountain]

[The A-Team starts very close to the boulder jammed underneath the roof]

[AJ getting the 2nd ascent of The A-Team!]

So why is it called the A-Team? Well, if you show up with climbers from the ARC named AJ, Alex, Andre, Allen and Armin then you don't need to look no further for a name!

[All the digging, climbing and cleaning takes its toll! AJ disinfecting his battle scars.]

[One last view from the "Tour Boulder" towards Morongo]

[Some day I will be back...]

 

Umfrage:

...support your vision!
Banner